Welcome to the wilderness

Words by Jamie Jansen
Photography by Renae Musson

Nestled just 15 kilometres off the coast of Port Douglas, Low Isles have long enchanted visitors with stunning snorkelling opportunities, sun-kissed sands and the sight of playful turtles elegantly gliding through crystal-clear waters. But these two charming islands offer much more than unforgettable marine experiences and stunning scenery. They are rich in ecological importance, research history and cultural heritage. Are you ready to strap on your snorkel gear and dive into the fascinating backstory of Low Isles?

For those yet to explore this magical paradise, let’s begin with an introduction.

Low Isles hold significant value for the Eastern Kuku Yalanji and Yirrganydji Peoples, who know these islands as Wungkun. Recognised as a Commonwealth Heritage site, the indigenous communities have relied on its marine resources for thousands of years and view it as intertwined with their Dreamings, serving as a vital storytelling place and a foundation of their spiritual connection to the land and sea.

When noted by Captain Cook in 1770, Low Isles was described as a “small low island”, and it was officially named Low Isles in 1819.

The site consists of two small coral cay islands, which are surrounded by 55 acres of vibrant reef. The smaller coral cay is known as Low Island, while the larger, Woody Island, is blanketed in a mangrove forest and serves as a crucial bird nesting site and habitat for various species.

This unique destination is a rare blend of coral cay and mangrove habitats, fostering a rich diversity of flora and fauna. The tranquil lagoon not only enhances this beauty but also provides an ideal refuge and feeding ground for a thriving population of turtles.

A historical milestone

Low Isles are far more than just a picturesque destination. Part of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park, they are a scientific hotspot that ranks among the most intensively studied coral cay on the planet.

Did you know the first major research expedition on the Great Barrier Reef happened right here on the Low Isles back in 1928-1929?

It was led by Sir Charles Maurice Yonge (1899-1986), a highly distinguished marine zoologist. This groundbreaking expedition, led by the Great Barrier Reef Committee and the Royal Society of London, established Low Isles as a pivotal site in marine science.

It was the world’s first extensive scientific study of a coral reef and set the stage for many modern theories on coral reef ecology, including insights into coral diets, bleaching events and growth patterns. It marked the beginning of Australia's rise as a major player in coral reef science, conservation and management.

Low Isles functioned as a research station from 1994 to 2012 and was part of a broader initiative that included other stations on Lizard, Orpheus, Heron, One Tree, and Green islands. While the Low Isles station is no longer in operation, the findings from the 1928-29 Great Barrier Reef Expedition continue to serve as important benchmarks for understanding changes in the reef over the past century.

Coral & marine life

Dive into the inviting waters of Low Isles and you'll quickly understand why researchers were so eager to explore these islands.

Recent transformations caused by Cyclone Jasper have altered parts of the ecosystem, which has yet to fully recover. Although the corals and rich marine life have been impacted, you can expect to encounter colourful parrot fish along with a variety of other species, such as angelfish, damselfish, anemonefish (clownfish), trevally, rabbitfish, sweetlips, moon wrasse and fusiliers.

Additionally, numerous species of seagrass serve as vital habitats and sources of nourishment for a variety of marine creatures, including sea cucumbers, spider shells, rays, green turtles, and dugongs. The current winter months have brought reduced sea temperatures and attractive conditions to include regular sightings of Humpback Whales, Black Tip and Lemon Sharks and Mantas Rays in the Low Isles Lagoon.

A stroll on the sand flats at low tide can unveil intriguing finds too. Recent discoveries revealed a juvenile habitat of the elusive golden sand fish, an endangered species.

Birdlife around Low Isles is equally vibrant, with kingfishers, Australian pelicans, varied honeyeaters, and migratory visitors like Bridled terns, Ruddy turnstones, and Pied Imperial pigeons gracing the skies. Among these feathered residents, ospreys have a particular fondness for the historic lighthouse on Low Island, where they have built their nests over many years.

Low Isles Preservation Society

This lighthouse is also where the story of the Low Isles Preservation Society (LIPS) begins. Constructed in 1878, the 20-metre-tall lighthouse has served continuously as a guiding light for ships navigating the channel between Port Douglas and Cairns.

Originally powered by a kerosene lamp, it now shines as a solar-powered beacon.

LIPS was established by the community in 1992 in response to the Australian Maritime Safety Authority’s (AMSA) decision to automate the lighthouse and remove its keepers.
The group's efforts include earlier co-management and safeguarding of the island and the development of education and protection programs for the Great Barrier Reef. Today, LIPS thrives with dedicated volunteers who focus on maintaining and caring for the isles ensuring their beauty and significance is preserved for future generations.

Caretakers

Among those who get to experience the magic of Low Isles on a daily basis are island caretakers Colin and Renata Musson. As full-time caretakers, they reside on the island and play a vital role.

Driven by their deep passion for marine life and fascination with Low Isles' unique ecosystem and history, the couple relocated from Victoria where they previously served as caretakers at Wilsons Promontory National Park light station for eight years.

No strangers to living on remote islands, the couple’s decision to manage such sites was partly influenced by Colin’s demanding 30-year career as a paramedic in Melbourne. Seeking a lifestyle change, they were inspired to find a new direction. Renata became a dive instructor, enabling them to explore and work in exotic locations such as Lizard, Heron, Orpheus, and Fraser islands.

Alongside their caretaking responsibilities, Colin and Renata are actively involved with LIPS. One exciting initiative they’ve proposed is transforming the old research centre into an offshore classroom, enabling local students to connect with the reef and foster a deeper appreciation and understanding of this remarkable environment.

The Future & Maritime heritage preservation

Alongside this exciting project, LIPS is engaging the services of the Queensland Museums Network for a feasibility study to establish a maritime and cultural precinct in Port Douglas.

The vision is to create a waterfront cultural facility that celebrates and showcases Port Douglas' diverse maritime history and unique environment. It will host maritime and cultural displays, educational activities, and plans to reinvigorate sustainable maritime industries providing an opportunity for training.

A section of the museum will also feature recorded oral histories from older generations connected to Port Douglas and their invaluable contributions to the local maritime industry. And of course, help celebrate the upcoming centenary of the GBR Expedition.

As LIPS continues to drive its mission to restore the historical research centre and establish educational programs, the islands are poised to inspire a new generation of marine scientists and conservationists. The blend of cultural heritage, ecological importance, and scientific research creates a rich tapestry of interconnection that honours the past while building a sustainable future.

There's no better time to experience the magic of these islands for yourself.
Whether you explore the historic lighthouse or encounter turtles amidst the island’s diverse birdlife, take the opportunity to connect with nature and participate in the ongoing story of Low Isles, where each moment spent on the island adds to the legacy of this remarkable destination.

To learn more about the research and projects of LIPS, visit their website at lips.org.au, which offers a wealth of information. If you're interested in supporting their initiatives, they welcome benefactors to help bring these projects to life.

Monitoring Pigeons

Monitoring Pied Imperial Pigeons (PIPs) at Low Isles has been part of a long-term conservation initiative since 1994.
As summer migrants to northern Australia, PIPs nest on many islands in the Great Barrier Reef. However, their numbers plummeted due to illegal shooting and the loss of mainland feeding grounds, with significant declines occurring until large-scale hunting was halted in 1968.

This LIPS volunteer program tracks local PIP populations every month from September to March and has revealed a steady increase in local PIP populations. An estimated 20,000 to 25,000 PIPs now breed at Low Isles, nesting in the mangroves on Woody Island and feeding in the mainland rainforests.

Remarkable women in Australian coral reef science

Did you know that the Great Barrier Reef’s scientific understanding owes much to remarkable women?

The 1928-29 Great Barrier Reef Expedition was groundbreaking for including a significant number of women in its research team, catalysing greater participation of women in scientific research across Australia. Six of the 18 scientists who took part were women and their contributions continue to inspire marine biologists today.

Among these trailblazers was Sidnie Manton, a 26-year-old from Cambridge University, who meticulously counted and measured coral colonies, revealing key insights into their zonation patterns.

She also collaborated with peers to create detailed maps of reef habitats, producing the first comprehensive section of a reef edge. This extensive cartographic record serves as a valuable baseline for scientists to assess changes in the reef's topography and ecological communities over the past 90 years.