Words by Jamie Jansen
Andy Gray has been a key figure in Port Douglas’s culinary scene for over 20 years, known for his expertise and passion for exceptional dining.
Many locals & tourists will remember him from bel cibo, the popular Italian restaurant he owned and ran for 12 years. In 2021, Andy launched Wrasse & Roe, focusing on expertly crafted seafood and cementing his reputation as one of the region’s top chefs.
With his commitment to locally sourced, high-quality ingredients, Andy has made Wrasse & Roe a must-visit for seafood lovers. His sautéed scallops with cauliflower truffle oil purée and crisp pancetta have become a signature favourite, while the Yellowfin Tuna with furikake seasoning and Katsuobushi mayo highlights his skill in balancing bold flavours with delicate touches. Each plate reflects his passion for delivering a seafood experience that embodies the essence of Port Douglas.
Andy’s expertise comes from years in top restaurants and the mentorship that shaped his approach to cooking. Growing up in New Zealand, he studied hospitality before stepping into professional kitchens. The first three months of his apprenticeship at Park Royal Hotel Wellington were spent washing dishes for 25 +chefs, a tough but valuable lesson in discipline, organisation, and gaining a solid work ethic.
After his apprenticeship, he became Chef de Partie at Cobar Seafood Restaurant before joining the opening team at Icon in Te Papa, Wellington. Eager to expand his skills, he traveled through Thailand and Malaysia, exploring new flavours and techniques before moving to Australia.
Andy’s first stop in Sydney was Orso Bayside Restaurant under Laurent Loudeac, but his career truly took off when he joined ARIA under the mentorship of Matt Moran and Simon Sandall. Known for its focus on top-quality ingredients and expert techniques, ARIA was a defining experience. Andy quickly moved from Chef de Partie to Sous Chef, working closely with Matt Moran, whose simple yet refined style and philosophy of letting the main ingredient shine continue to influence his cooking today.
While thriving in Sydney for over 2 years, Andy and his wife Carolyn started thinking about their future. A holiday to Port Douglas changed everything. They instantly fell in love with the area and, on a whim, bought a house, paving the way for the next chapter of Andy’s career.
Settling into their new home, Andy joined Italian restaurant Sassi Cucina as Sous chef before moving to 2 Fish Restaurant. He spent five years there, taking on the Head Chef role and refining his seafood expertise. In 2009, he and Carolyn took the leap and opened bel cibo. The Italian restaurant became a beloved part of the local dining scene, but in January 2020, an unexpected flood from the apartment above forced its closure.
Rather than rebuilding bel cibo, Andy saw an opportunity to evolve. He recognised a gap in the market for a high-quality Seafood restaurant. Wrasse & Roe was the natural next step, allowing Andy to showcase his passion for fresh, locally sourced sustainable seafood.
Today, it stands as Port Douglas’s top seafood destination. Perfectly positioned at the beach end of Macrossan Street near Four Mile Beach, Wrasse & Roe offers a relaxed yet refined dining experience. It’s an ideal spot to recharge after a day poolside in the sun, out on the great barrier reef or wandering through the beautiful rainforest.
Andy’s cooking philosophy is built on simple balanced flavour marriages and freshness, allowing top-quality ingredients to shine. One of his favourite local ingredients is finger limes, a native citrus bursting with caviar-like pearls that add a bright, zesty pop to salads, dressings, sauces, and of course oysters.
For Andy, delivering an exceptional guest experience starts long before the food reaches the table. He believes an organised restaurant team that shares the same goals is just as important as quality ingredients. Maintaining high standards and trying to exceed customer expectations are two aspects of hospitality he emphasises to the team. The attention to detail is precise, so every guest enjoys the best possible experience.
While many head chefs eventually take a step back out of the kitchen and into the office, Andy remains hands-on, thriving on the fast pace of service. For him, it’s the adrenaline of a busy night, the satisfaction of seeing perfectly plated dishes leave the pass, and knowing guests are about to experience something special. Seeing their enjoyment is what makes it all worthwhile.